Portugal - Porto I

Porto is Portugal's second largest city, and one of Europe's oldest cities dating back to the 4th century. Porto's historic centre was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1996.

The city is located along the estuary of the Douro River . It's also known as the home of Portugal's most famous export - Port wine.

Porto was elected "The best European destination" in 2014 and 2017, by the Best European Destinations Agency.

I had last visited Porto probably about 15 years ago and was quite amazed at the renovation the city has undergone, and how vibrant the city has become. 

It's got quite a few steep cobblestone streets, which gives you quite a workout if you intend to walk, but it's a very charming city with lots of beautiful shops, restaurants, amazing architecture and quite a few interesting bridges.

Sign at Sao Bento Train Station

Because we decided to drive to Porto (from Lisbon) one day before we were due to go, I had to call the owner of the apartment I had booked via Airbnb, to find out if he could accommodate us 1 day earlier.

He couldn't, but said he could call a friend who worked for a company that had apartments in the city centre. We accepted that, and even though it was only a studio apartment for the 4 of us, it was ok as it was to be for one night only.

Located on the first floor of an old but renovated building, the BNloft apartment was super modern - it was an open space with a sofa bed, 2 single beds, a table for 4 whose chairs fit flush with the table, and a cubic unit that enclosed the kitchen that opened up and had everything one needed and a small bathroom. Best of all it was very central and within walking distance to most tourist spots.

  

                                                        BN loft apartment in Largo dos Loios, Porto

Ribeira:

After dropping our bags, my daughter and I went to park the car in a nearby garage recommended to us.
When we returned, the four of us wandered around the area admiring the buildings, and eventually started walking towards Porto's riverfront promenade, the famous Ribeira (Riverside), one of Porto's favourite tourist spots.

Ribeira old houses facing the river Douro, Luis I bridge (at dusk)

The Ribeira Square was formerly the area where a long time ago people sold fish, meat, bread and other goods. After a fire destroyed the area in 1491, the houses facing the river were rebuilt with arcades on the ground floor and the Square was paved with stone slabs.

On the north side there is a 3 storey high fountain built in the 1780's decorated with the Portuguese coat of arms. A modern statue of St John the Baptist occupies the niche.
A black cubic sculpture, nicknamed Cubo da Ribeira (Ribeira's cube) was erected over the remains of a 17th century fountain.

Ribeira Square - the fountain, St John Baptist statue and the Cube sculpture (left)

 

Fountain, Cube scultpure & Ribeira riverfront

The Ribeira area is packed with restaurants and bars facing the river, and at night time it's wonderful to sit and watch the night lights shining on the river from the Ribeira side and from Gaia side across the river bank.

Soon it was dinner time and we got a table at a restaurant on the first floor, so we could enjoy the river views.

São Bento Station and  St. Anthony's Congregation Church:

After a very enjoyable dinner we walked back home via the Sao Bento train station and the Church of St Anthony's Congregation, so we could see them all lit up. They were on the block just behind our building, so from there it was just a 5 min walk home.

Sao Bento station and St. Anthony's Congregation Church

The next morning, my husband and I woke up quite early and left to have breakfast at a coffee shop just across from Sao Bento station, but decided to visit the station first, one of Porto's most visited sights. 

Considered to be one of the world's most beautiful train stations, the building of Sao Bento station was started in 1903 and completed in 1915, and is a 3 storey symmetrical U-shaped building reminiscent of a Parisian building. 

The walls of the central hall are covered in 20,000 azulejos (tiles) representing Portuguese historical events , work scenes and the history of transport. 
The tiles were composed by Jorge Colaço, an important painter of azulejos. 

View of the station hall

Some of the historical scenes in Sao Bento's station hall

The top freeze of tiles depicts means of transport, bordered by tiles with geometric patterns in browns and yellows. It certainly is a most beautiful station worthy of a visit!

Arch into the station platform, platform and statue outside of station to the architects of this station

After breakfast, we visited the Church across the street - St. Anthony's Church, which was completed in 1680 and built on the site of a former chapel dedicated to St. Anthony.  

The facade is of baroque influence, and was ornamented with tiles by Jorge Colaço (the same artist that painted the Sao Bento station tiles) in the 20th century. The pulpits and lateral altar in gilt carving are from the 18th century.

Church of St Anthony's Congregation

Praça da Liberdade and Avenida dos Aliados:

Right around the corner from the church is what is known as the heart of Porto - Praca da Liberdade (Liberty/Freedom Square),  the hub of important events in Porto - sports, political and cultural.

A statue inaugurated in 1866 of King Peter IV riding a horse and holding the Constitution, sits in the middle of the square.

After 1916, the modern boulevard Avenida dos Aliados (Allied Avenue) was built to the north of the square. It's lined with beautiful buildings from the 20's and 40's occupied by hotels, banks, restaurants, cafes and offices and it has a central area that is often used to host festivals or street performers.

It was named to honour the Allies of World War I, and if you have the time, enjoy a stroll along this beautiful avenue and admire the architecture of the buildings surrounding it, or sit at one of the many esplanades of the Cafes and do some people watching.

At the top of the avenue is the Town Hall, made of granite and marble, and with a 70mt high bell tower.

Liberty Square with Statue of King Peter IV and Allied Avenue, with the Town Hall at the top end

Some of the architecturally beautiful buildings in the Allied Avenue

King Pedro IV Statue from 1866

I also found an interesting statue around the corner from the church leading to the Liberty Square - "The Paper boy" done in 1990 by Manuel Dias. It reminded me of the olden days in Portugal when men sold newspapers while shouting out the front page news.

The Paper Boy statue

It had started to drizzle and we took shelter under umbrellas at a Cafe in the Avenue, and sat there while my husband had a coffee.  You can see the grey skies from the photos ...

About 15 minutes later the rain stopped and we walked back to the apartment. It was time to join our daughter and son inlaw and pack up our belongings so we could leave the apartment by 11Am, onto our next destination.

The Tuk-tuks in front of apartment building in Largo dos Loios

Hope you enjoyed the first part of my 4 day stay in Porto.