May Wrap-up & signs - Istanbul, Day 2

                                                                 DAY 2

Before leaving I bought an online Istanbul Explorer pass, a code was emailed to me, which got activated the first time the e-card was used to enter a venue. 

I highly recommend it, as we saved time by not standing in long queues to buy tickets and we got a guide for some of the visits! 

My ticked covered 2 days, the 8th and 9th of May - and it would give us entrance to over 80 venues, an E-sim, a Bosphorus boat tour, a bus ticket to or from the airport shuttle… Of course we didn't have time to visit 80 venues in 2 days, but just adding the cost of tickets  for the venues we had planned to visit were enough to cover the cost of the pass.

I paid about $200 Aud each (125 Euros). Prices in Istanbul were mostly quoted in Euros, even though they aren't in the Euro zone, but they have a very high inflation rate (above 30% year), hence their Turkish Lira price varies frequently, so it's easier to work out from Euro to Turkish Lira at the time of purchase.

Locals only pay about 1/4 of what visiting foreigners pay.

Friday 8th May

Hagia Sophia - €25 entry fee for foreign visitors; Open from 8am to 19,30pm in Summer; Women must cover their hair, and all visitors must have their knees and shoulders covered. 

After our free hotel breakfast, we walked to Sultanahmet Square, and met up with our guide who was carrying a flag from Istanbul E-pass. At the arranged time the group followed him to the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque and after going past an airport type security line, we entered the mosque.

Formerly a church from 360-1453, converted to a mosque in 1453 after the fall of Constantinople, when the minarets were added, and a museum from 1935- 2020, when it was redesignated as a mosque. 

Built in the Byzantine architectural style by Emperor Justinian I and served as an architectural inspiration for many other religious buildings. It still has Catholic symbols like Angels and Crosses and is apparently not a very popular mosque due to that. It is undergoing reconstruction works and as Non-Muslims we could only visit the second floor. 

I found the entree fee quite steep considering that the mosque is it's under renovation...and also thought that the Blue Mosque is so much more beautiful.

Basilica Cistern - 1950TL (about 53 Euros) from 9 to 18,30 and 3000TL (70 Euros) from 19,30 to 22,00h. 

After our visit we returned to Sultanahmet Square and met up with another guide from the same company to visit the Basilica Cistern, just 150 mt from Hagia Sophia. 

A UNESCO heritage site, it is an impressive underground structure spanning 10 thousand square metres, holding up to 80 thousand cubic metres of water, brought in via aqueducts from over 20km away. It was built in the 6th century during the reign of Justinian I, and is the largest of several cisterns that lie beneath the city.

Historical texts claim that its construction involved the work of 7000 slaves. It features 336 marble and granite columns, each 9 metres high, arranged in 12 rows. .

Major restoration works between 1985 and 87 uncovered the Medusa head column bases, and wooden walkways were built to allow the structure to open to the public as a museum.

Between 2020 and 2022 a new restoration took place, when stainless steel rods were installed between columns, and a modular steel walkway was installed to improve visitor experience, with Led lighting and sensors for atmospheric lighting and digital exhibitions. Nowadays little water is kept there.

After the Cistern, we walked back to Sultanahmet Square and we joined our first guide who would lead us to our visit to Topkapi Palace. This time since we were a big group we were given audio phones which was a better experience as we could hear the guide amid the noise of the other visitors.

Just outside the Imperial gate of the Topkapi Palace is the Sultan Ahmed III Fountain, a square shaped fountain with 5 domes, built in 1728 in white marble.

Day and night view of the Sultan Ahmed fountain (with one of Hagia Sophia's spires behind it)

Topkapi Palace & Hagia Irene - 2,750 TL (about  55 euros) for foreigners, Harem tickets, add on about 18 euros). Open from 9am to 6pm with last entry 1h before. It is closed on Tuesdays and on religious holidays. Allow 3 to 5 hours to visit. A visit to the Palace Harem costs extra.

Also recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, it is the second most visited site in Istanbul after Hagia Sophia. It was the former residence of the Ottoman Sultans since the 15th century. Construction of Topkapi Palace began in 1456, by Sultan Mehmed, the Conqueror, six years after the conquest of Constantinople. The complex has expanded over the centuries, with renovations after the 1509 earthquake and the 1665 fire.

The palace served as the administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire and was the main residence of the sultans until the completion of the Dolmabahce Palace in 1853, where the sultans preferred to spend their time along the Bosphorus. Topkapi retained some of its functions like the library, mint and imperial treasury. After the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1923, Topkapi became a museum.

The Imperial gate marks the transition from the outside world into the heart of the palace's public First courtyard.

Imperial gate

Hagia Irene (Sacred Peace or Saint Irene), just to the left in the outer courtyard of the palace, is the oldest church of the Eastern Roman Empire (Byzantine), and the second largest church after Hagia Sophia. 

It was also undergoing restoration works, so not much to be seen.

The Gate of Salutation or Middle gate with the two octagonal towers, marks the entrance into the more private and secured Second Courtyard where the administrative heart of the Ottoman empire was located. 

The guide relayed the history of the palace and took us through the gate. Commissioned by Mehmed, the Conqueror in 1468, it required all visitors to dismount from their horses before entering, with the exception of the Sultan, who was permitted to pass through on horseback.

Tower of Justice

The Gate of Felicity is the entrance to the Third courtyard, marking the threshold between the public administrative area and the Sultan's private quarters. No one was allowed to pass without the Sultan's permission, and again only he could pass through on horseback.

Gate of Felicity and me with one of the Turkish guard with Ottoman outfit

Again our guide gave some info about the palace and some of the buildings we could visit and we were then free to explore. We didn’t visit the Harem, (where female members of the Sultan's family lived) - that would be an extra ticket which could be bought at a cheaper rate from the guide, but we just had no time.

Only a few buildings are open to the public, such as: 

The Treasury, where the Spoonmaker's Diamond (86 carat, pear-shaped, surrounded by a double row of 49 smaller brilliant-cut diamonds) and the Topkapi Dagger (35cm long gold encrusted dagger with 3 polished emeralds set into the handle and a watch hidden beneath a hinged cover) are on display, as well as objects donated by other countries to the Sultans. The Museum also a collection of Ottoman clothing, weapons, armour, religious relics, manuscripts…

The Museum where Ottoman clothing, armament, etc is displayed

The Library of Ahmed III -  a 1719 octagonal marble building in the Third courtyard, housing over 20 thousand rare manuscripts and historical documents from the Ottoman and Islamic history.

The Audience chamber - a 15th century pavilion, was the center of Imperial power, where the Sultan sat on his plush canopied divan to formally receive foreign ambassadors and high ranking officials.

Audience Chamber on the right and Ahmed III Library on the left

The library

The Baghdad Pavilion - In the Fourth Courtyard, built by Sultan Murad IV, a fearsome, authoritative tyrant, to commemorate his victory over Baghdad in 1638. He died of cirrhosis at the age of 27. The pavilion has mother of pearl and tortoiseshell inlaid doors and wall adorned with Iznik tiles and views of the Bosphorus Strait from the terrace.

Another building in the Fourth courtyard also built by Sultan Murad IV is the Yerevan Pavilion (Revan Kiosk), to commemorate the capture of the city of Yerevan (also known as Revan or Iravan), the capital of Armenia in 1635.

Views of the Bosphorus Strait and 2 Turkish black & white hooded crows

The Circumcision Room also located in the Fourth courtyard, built in 1640 by Sultan Ibrahim I, served as the ceremonial space for the circumcision of young princes. The rite of passage was celebrated with weeks of festivities, where hundreds if poor boys were also circumcised and gifted clothing and gold coins at the state's expense. 

The exterior of this Ottoman design building is covered with recycled 16th century blue and white tiles, recessed cupboards, a fireplace, stained glass windows, and wall fountains used to soothe recovering princes.

The Grand Kiosk or Mecidiye Kiosk is the largest and last pavilion in the fourth courtyard and served as the imperial reception space. Built in 1850 by Sultan Abdülmecid, it boasts a wide marble terrace that offers panoramic views of the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara and the Asia shores of the city.

Views from the Grand Kiosk

And after admiring the views of both sides of the city, it was time to leave the Palace and carry on our sightseeing.

We walked to the nearest tram stop at Sultanahmet Square to buy our Istanbulkart at a vending machine. A lovely local who was in the queue behind us and a few more foreigners helped them and us as he must have been getting frustrated waiting for all of us clueless people 😀😀.

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There is a 165 TL (5 Aud) fee for the cost of the card, and you can then add in money for the trips depending on how many trips you plan on having. Each card is good to be tagged for up to 5 people, then you just top up with cash or a credit card at the station machines. Just tap the card at the turnstile for each person using it.

There are 5 tram lines and 11 Metro lines, plus a few ferry lines crossing the Strait, and you can use this card for all. Trams operate every 10 minutes or so, from 6am to midnight, and these two lines would probably be the most used by tourists.

T1 (Bağcılar – Kabataş):  It connects the major tourist sites in Old Istanbul  (Sultanahmet, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar) and modern districts (Eminönü, Spice Bazaar, Karaköy/Galata Tower, and Kabataş for ferry connections).

T2 (Taksim – Tünel): A nostalgic red streetcar that runs the length of the bustling pedestrian avenue, Istiklal Caddesi (street), connecting Taksim Square to Tünel.

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After tagging our ticket, we boarded the next tram on Line 1  to Eminönü pier. From there we walked across the Galata Bridge, which was packed with lots of fishermen and women to the Karaköy District.

Galata bridge with the fishermen, cats and the Eminönü Mosque in the background

Our first stop was the Kamondo Stairs, the famous hexagonal Art Nouveau style staircase in the Galata/Karaköy district, which were commissioned in the 1850's by a wealthy Jewish family. 

We wanted to take a photo, but there was a bridal couple being photographed, and an Instagram influencer who basically pouted her way up every single step!!

                

Galata Tower - Open daily from 08:30 to 23:00, with last admission at 22:00, entry fee : 650 TL (approximately €28).

On the way to nearby Galata Tower we found lots of murals :).

We climbed took a lift to the 6th floor and then the circular staircase to the 8th floor with a balcony all around the tower where you get a 360º view of the city. Built as a watchtower in 1348, after many repairs and transformations, the tower is now an exhibition space and museum.

After renovation works Galata Tower reopened to the visiting public on the 25th May 2024, with a new visitor policy that capped visitor entry at 100 per hour.

The nine-story tower is 62.59 m (205.3 ft) tall, excluding the ornament on the top. The observation deck is at 51.65 m (169.5 ft). The tower is 61 m (200 ft) above sea-level. It has an external diameter of 16.45 m (54.0 ft) at the base, an inside diameter of 8.95 m (29.4 ft), and walls that are 3.75 m (12.3 ft) thick.

                  

After the tower we walked to Istiklal Street – a 1,4km long pedestrian street that ends at Taksim Square. The street is flanked by shops, restaurants, sweet shops… as well as being packed with locals and tourists. The nostalgic tram came past occasionally.

We stopped at the Church of St. Anthony of Padua, the largest Catholic Church in Istanbul.

I was surprised to see small stalls in the church's courtyard, but apparently the church hosts local artisans and charity bazaars, as well as it being a host of Christmas markets.

We walked all the way to the end reaching Taksim Square, where the red streetcar stops. 

The square is also where to find the 11mt tall Republic Monument which was inaugurated in 1928, to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Republic of Turkey. Opposite the square is the grand Taksim Mosque, an Art Deco style building opened in 2021, that can accommodate 4000 worshippers.

Republic Monument & Taksim Mosque

After walking almost all the way back to the start, and well past our dinner time, we stopped at a nice-looking restaurant - Beykizi Cafe & Restaurant - on a little side street off Istiklal street, and sat down to dinner in the outdoor area. 

As we sat down on one side was someone smoking shisha, so we asked to be moved…as we sat down again, we noticed 3 people were smoking cigarettes at the next table, so we moved again further down and hoped nobody would sit next to us and pull out their smokes! Dinner was nice, good service too.

 

It had started to drizzle when we finished our dinner, but luckily it didn't rain hard.

We googled where to catch the tram back to Sultanahmet, it was a long way down, but we got there. It was always a pleasure to see the Blue Mosque lit up at night on our way from the tram stop to our hotel!

We still stopped at the coffee shop next to the hotel to say hello to the friendly waiters and they invited us in for a tea – apple tea for me of course!

And so ended another great day is Istanbul!

Also linking with Tom's SIGNS - check this link for signs from around the world!

For Day 1 of my trip to Istanbul check this post:

https://sami-colourfulworld.blogspot.com/2026/07/may-wrap-up-and-signs-istanbul-day-1.html